Natural AHAs

from NATURAL ALPHA HYDROXY ACIDS FOR SMOOTHER SKINUpdated on September 22, 2017 By AMANDA COOK 

You’ve probably heard about AHA’s before – they’re a popular ingredient in anti-aging skincare.  Why?  Because they are a chemical exfoliant – and reveal the layer of newer, smoother skin cells underneath.  Fortunately for us, there are less-painful (and completely natural!) sources of alpha hydroxy acids that we can include in our beauty routines at home.

WHY DO ALPHA HYDROXY ACIDS HELP YOU LOOK YOUNGER?

As we age, our new skin cells take longer to reach the visible surface of our skin, and the older cells take longer to slough off.  (source)

Exfoliation is the process of removing the outer, older skin cells to reveal the new, smooth skin cells underneath.  There are two main types of exfoliation: physical and chemical.

Physical exfoliation is when we use a grainy substance to physically rub the old skin cells off.  Body scrubs made from salt, sugar or ground apricot pits are popular exfoliation ingredients.  You could also use a more gentle physical exfoilant like cornmeal, ground oatmeal or a muslin cloth.  (See my recipes for mocha body scrub, mint coconut sugar scrub,  brown sugar lip scrub and hot cloth cleanser)

Chemical exfoliation is when a fruit acid or milk acid is applied to the skin which breaks down the substance holding the dead skin cells to your skin, and allows them to be rinsed away.  Because this is an acidic substance, it can cause a tingling or burning sensation when used in high enough concentrations.  This process is often called a peel or peeling mask.

When we exfoliate the skin by either process, we reveal a layer of younger, smoother skin cells underneath.  This smoother skin texture (generally with clearer appearance, and a rosy glow) makes us look younger.  The effect is temporary, of course, because our skin is constantly producing new cells, and readying the old ones to slough off.

WHAT ARE THE NATURAL SOURCES OF ALPHA HYDROXY ACIDS?

Fortunately for natural beauty lovers, you don’t need to buy harsh chemical products to give yourself a gentle, at-home chemical peel.  Many fresh fruits and food products contain natural acids which will gently exfoliate our skin.

I typically don’t include fresh fruits and foods in my beauty recipes, because of the storage factor: since they are fresh, they only keep a short time!

So rather than buying fruit especially for these recipes, I wait until I have some on-hand to eat, and then I make myself a little home facial at the same time.

Note: Alpha hydroxy acids will make your skin more sensitive to the sun.  Please use the natural ingredients below as a mask or treatment (I prefer to use these in the evening), and use a sunscreen before going outdoors.

Also, all timings given below are approximate.  You know your skin best.  If it starts to strongly tingle or burn, rinse it off immediately!  It’s always best to start with the shortest amount of time given, and increase gradually, when you know how your skin reacts.  I recommend leaving these masks on your skin from 10-30 minutes maximum.

NATURAL SOURCES OF ALPHA HYDROXY ACIDS

Lemons + Grapefruit – Lemons and grapefruit are the strongest source of natural AHA’s in this list.  In fact, in several of my old recipe books, it suggests applying lemon juice to the skin to lighten discolorations (for example, as a natural melasma treatment) and uneven skin tone.  Be careful when applying lemon or grapefruit juice to your skin – and listen to what your body is telling you!  I’ve experimented with these myself, and definitely felt the tingle!  You can apply the juice directly, or after juicing a lemon or grapefruit to use in cooking, simply rub the pulpy peel on your face (avoiding the eye area!)  Citrus fruits in particular make the skin more sensitive to the sun, so please wear a sunscreen after using this treatment!

Papaya – Papaya is a delicious and effective exfoliating treat for the face.  Of course you can crush papaya and apply to your face like a mask, but again I like to eat the papaya, and then rub the inner peel (with a little of the flesh attached) on my face.

Pineapple – Pineapple is another great tropical exfoliating treat.  I find the peel a bit scratchy to apply directly, so I like to crush or blend fresh pineapple and apply the juice as a mask.

Tomato – It’s not just tropical fruits that contain AHA’s, you can use the inside of tomatoes as a natural anti-aging mask.  I like to use the seed pulp in the center (so you can eat the rest of the tomato in your salad!)

WebMD NOTE: Alpha hydroxy acids are a group of natural acids found in foods. Alpha hydroxy acids include citric acid (found in citrus fruits), glycolic acid (found in sugar cane), lactic acid (found in sour milk and tomato juice), malic acid (found in apples), tartaric acid (found in grapes), and others.

Alpha hydroxy acids are most commonly used for skin conditions such as dry skin, wrinkled skin, or acne.

Not all cosmetics that contain alpha hydroxy acid have the concentration information on the label. For safety's sake, it's best to use products that identify the concentration of active ingredients.

How does it work?

Alpha hydroxy acids seem to work by removing the top layers of dead skin cells. They can also increase the thickness of deeper layers of skin, promoting firmness.

From Livestrong blog List of Alpha Hydroxy Acids

by SHAUNTELLE HAMLETT  Last Updated: Oct 03, 2017

Alpha-hydroxy acids are naturally occurring acids that are derived from plant sugars. Alpha-hydroxy acids are often used in cosmetics to increase skin cell turnover, exfoliate dead cells from the surface of the skin, and improve the skin’s ability to maintain moisture. Alpha-hydroxy acids are also synthetically manufactured and used in applications ranging from food to medical to industrial use. There are six types that are naturally derived from three main sources: sugar cane, milk and fruit.

Glycolic Acid

Glycolic acid has the smallest molecules of all the alpha-hydroxy acids. It is colorless, odorless and water soluble. Glycolic acid is naturally derived from sugar cane, but is synthetically produced by several manufacturers. Glycolic acid is commonly known for its use in cosmetic and haircare products, but it is also used in higher concentrations to clean concrete, industrial equipment, metal, and water.Lactic Acid

Lactic acid is actually derived from soured dairy products, as well as fermented vegetables and fruit. Lactic acid is also naturally occurring in humans and animals and is associated with muscle energy usage. It was commonly thought that lactic acid caused muscle fatigue; however, as noted by the New York Times in a May 2006 article, evidence has existed since the 1970s indicating lactic acid may actually provide energy to fatigued muscles. Cosmetically, lactic acid—also known as milk acid—is suggested for consumers with sensitivity to other alpha-hydroxy acids.

Tartaric Acid

Tartaric acid is found in unripe grapes and is the primary active ingredient that gives wine its distinct taste. Commercially, tartaric acid is found as a white powder and is often used in the food industry to give foods a sour taste.

Citric Acid

The highest level of naturally occurring citric acid is found in oranges and lemons; however, it also occurs as part of the metabolic process in most living creatures. Citric acid is an antioxidant and also a natural preservative. It is often used in the food industry to add a sour taste to drinks and foods.

Malic Acid

Malic acid is found in several fruits and vegetables, but is most associated with apples and cherries. Malic acid also occurs naturally as part of the metabolic process in humans and animals. It is often used to enhance flavors in beverages, candy, confections, and in medicinal products like lozenges.

Mandelic Acid

Mandelic acid is an alpha-hydroxy acid derived from bitter almond. Mandelic acid has antibacterial properties. It has been used medicinally as a treatment for urinary tract infections and as an oral antibiotic. It is also used cosmetically as an anti-aging and acne treatment.

from Livestrong blog Foods Containing Alpha Hydroxy Acid by ANDREA CESPEDES  Last Updated: Oct 03, 2017

Alpha hydroxy acids are best known for their skin-care powers -- apply products with this ingredient to smooth fine lines and surface wrinkles, improve skin's texture, cleanse pores and enhance your overall look. AHAs, as they're commonly known, may be applied topically, but they come from natural sources. AHAs are a collection of acids, including lactic, citric and malic acid; many familiar foods contain them.

Citrus

Lemon, grapefruit and other citrus fruits contain alpha hydroxy acids, primarily in the form of citric acid. In skin products, citric acid works as an astringent, a preservative and as an ingredient to balance the acid-alkali ratio. Lemon juice has a long history of being applied to the face to help fade freckles and skin discoloration. Be aware that citric acid, especially lemon juice, applied to the skin increases your sun sensitivity. If you eat more citrus fruits, you'll also load up on vitamin C, which helps boost your skin's appearance from the inside out.

Lactic Acid

Lactic acid is prevalent in soured milk and yogurt. Apply full-fat plain yogurt to your skin as a natural mask. For a food to help bolster healthy skin, whip yogurt up into a smoothie with antioxidant-rich blueberries, strawberries and raspberries.

Malic Acid

Malic acid comes from apples -- both the whole fruit and cider. Use the acid as an astringent to help stimulate cell renewal. Applied to the face, it will make your skin feel smooth and tight.

Bitter Almonds

Mandelic acid is used in skin peels that help even out skin tone and repair sun damage. People who have acne scarring may also benefit from use of mandelic acid. Derived from bitter almonds, it undergoes a chemical process before being used as an ingredient in skin care products.

Other Good Skin Foods

Papaya and pineapple don't contain alpha hydroxy acids, but they do contain papain and bromelain, enzymes that work in much the same way. These enzymes stimulate you to exfoliate a layer of dead skin cells and result in a softer, smoother appearance. Apply straight pineapple juice to your face, or rub your face with the inner peel of the papaya to benefit.

from Livestrong blog What Are the Side Effects of Alpha Hydroxy Acid and 12 Percent Glycolic? by SARAH METZKER ERDEMIR  Last Updated: Oct 03, 2017

Alpha hydroxy acid, also called AHA, is a type of acid derived from a natural source, such as citric or lactic acid. Glycolic acid is an AHA derived from sugar cane. Home exfoliating products, such as lotions or cleaners, use AHA to rejuvenate and freshen skin. Professional chemical peels use stronger AHA solutions that remove the topmost layers of skin to reduce fine wrinkles and sun damage. Over-the-counter products containing 12 percent or less glycolic acid and other AHAs are usually gentle enough for daily or weekly use.

Irritation

Everyone's skin is different, and some people have stronger reactions to AHA and glycolic acid. Irritation might include redness and swelling. If it's the first time you're using a product containing AHA, do a patch test on your inner elbow the day before you try the product on your face. Do not use the product if there is any sign of irritation from the patch test.

If you have a reaction on your face from 12 percent glycolic acid, stop using the product. Consider using a product with a lower concentration of AHA or glycolic acid.

Burning

A mild burning or stinging sensation is a common side effect of glycolic acid and AHA products. Usually the stinging is temporary and will disappear when you wash the product off. If the burning doesn't bother you much, try using the product less frequently until your skin gets used to it. If your skin still burns after washing the product off, try switching to a lower concentration.

Peeling

Your skin may peel after using glycolic acid or AHA, especially if you are using other exfoliating products or acne medications. White patches sometimes appear on areas of skin that are about to peel. Avoid picking or pulling at peeling skin, or you risk scarring and infection.

Itching

Itching is a less-common side effect of AHA and glycolic acid. In many cases, itching accompanies peeling. Soothe itchy skin with a cold compress. Apply a moisturizer if your skin feels tight and itchy.

Photosensitivity

Since glycolic acid and AHA remove dead skin and some of the upper layers of skin, photosensitivity is a very common side effect. You may sunburn easily from very little sun exposure or from using a tanning bed. After using any AHA on your skin, protect yourself with a sunscreen that's SPF 15 or higher. Getting a sunburn after using AHA or glycolic acid increases your chance of permanent sun damage.

from Livestrong blog How to Make Homemade Glycolic Acid by RAMONA FRENCH  Last Updated: Jul 18, 2017

Glycolic acid is one of the alpha-hydroxy acids derived from fruit and milk as well as plants high in sugar such as sugar cane and sugar beets. Glycolic acid is used in skin creams and facial peels. The acid dissolves the bonds that hold layers of skin cells together, so that the outer layer of dead skin cells can be stripped away revealing younger, smoother skin.

Step 1. Combine the muscovado sugar and essential oil with enough yogurt to make a creamy paste. The sugar won't dissolve completely. Muscovado sugar is minimally processed, contains glycolic acid and moisturizes as well as exfoliates.

Step 2. Apply the sugar paste to your face, avoiding the area close to your eyes. Wait for three to four minutes, and then splash on a little water and massage the sugar paste over your complexion in light circles with your fingertips.

Step 3. Rinse thoroughly with warm water. Use the chamomile tea as a final rinse to completely remove the sugar and yogurt paste and to soothe your skin.

Step 4. Massage the almond or olive oil into your skin while it is still damp. The emollient oil will help smooth your skin and seal in moisture.

Things You'll Need

• Small mixing bowl
• Spoon
• 2 tbsp. muscovado sugar
• 1 to 2 tbsp. plain yogurt
• 1 to 2 drops essential oil, such as lavender or rose
• 1 cup chamomile tea, cooled
• 1 tsp. almond or olive oil

Tips

• Yogurt is a source of lactic acid. Substitute apple sauce, which contains malic acid, or lemon or orange juice, which contains citric acid. Citrus acid is somewhat harsh; leave the mixture on your face for a shorter time to avoid irritating your skin. For sensitive skin, use plain white sugar instead of muscovado sugar. Plain white sugar has smaller crystals than muscovado sugar.

Warnings

• Do a patch test of your sugar and yogurt, apple sauce or lemon juice paste. Apply a little to your inner arm and cover with a bandage. After 24 hours, check for skin irritation. Although your sugar and yogurt paste has a smaller percentage of glycolic acid than the commercial products used by dermatologists, you still need to protect your skin from exposure to sun, wind, and extremes of cold and heat. Apply sunscreen daily and use a moisturizer regularly.

Recipes from Hello Glow blog OCTOBER 11, 2014 BY DEBORAH HARJU

Cleansing Applesauce Scalp Treatment

• 1/2 cup apple sauce

Apply organic, preservative free applesauce directly to your scalp and hair. The malic acid will break down any clogged hair follicles and dead skin lingering on the scalp. Leave on for 10 minutes and then rinse. Conditioner is not necessary as locks will be left shiny and clean.

Apple Cider Vinegar Peel

• 1 tablespoon organic, raw, unfiltered apple cider vinegar
• 1/2 lemon (optional)

In a bowl or small cup, pour in the apple cider vinegar and if you are treating pigmentation or sun spots, you can add a squeeze of half a lemon. Using a cotton round, dip the cotton in the cup and then gently swab over face in circular motions. Avoid the eye area. Tingling sensations are normal, however if you feel burning you can dilute the apple cider vinegar with water. Leave the peel on for 5 minutes and then rinse off with warm water.

Recipes from Hello Glow APRIL 1, 2014 BY STEPHANIE GERBER

Cleansing Exfoliator

My hubby got me this scrub for Christmas, and the smell is the perfect morning pick-me-up. The sage was unexpected, so I did a little research and realized how beneficial it is. Good news is that it’s way cheaper to make your own.

Lemon + Sage Scrub

• 1/2 cup sea salt
• 1 teaspoon dried sage
• juice from 1 lemon
• Olive oil --NOTE Olive oil makes me break out
• 2-3 drops lemon essential oil (optional)

Add enough olive oil to make a paste and then apply in the shower.

Dandruff + Buildup fighter

While you’re in the shower, give yourself a scalp massage to fight drandruff and remove product buildup. Massage 2 tablespoons of lemon juice directly to the scalp daily after shampooing and conditioning. Rinse thoroughly. Use caution as this may also lighten your hair color.

Age spot reducing toner

The best way to use vitamin C on your age spots is lemon juice. The citric acid in lemon juice can help gradually fade the spots and help even your skin tone.

Lemon juice toner – 2 ways

Combine the juice from 1/2 lemon + 1/2 cup witch hazel

Or apply lemon juice directly to age spots with a cotton ball

You can rinse the juice off, but I’ve been leaving it on and love how it feels.

Foot exfoliator

Here’s my favorite use for the inevitable leftover lemon half. Why, why does every recipe call for only half? I have let more lemon halves wither in the vain hope that I’ll whip up something fabulous. Now I don’t have to worry – just dip the half into granulated sugar and give your soles a scrub. Problem solved!